EXCERPT FROM SARA’S JOURNALJanuary 21, 1999
Huerta Santa Maria
Near Galaroza
We’ve come to explore the Cradle of Bullfighting.
It's 1695 and Francisco Romero is laying down the rules of
Bullfighting. He's introducing the muleta (the red cape). Later, his grandson,
Pedro will become one of Spain’s greatest bullfighters, founding the Ronda School,
known still for its classicism and strict observance to the rules. Pedro becomes the first
matador to fight a pie (on foot). In Spain, bullfighters are Rock Stars.
The Plaza de Toros, built in 1785 is one of the oldest in Spain.
Here they hold, annually, the traditional Corridas Goyescas, fights in period
costumes from the time of Goya. The Museo Taurino is squished with a British
busload. They wear plastic ponchos and local handiwork capes. Their guide is barely
discernable; "An heer yoo weel see dee cozoom ov dee matadores. Tis Plathza wuss
yoozd for de emoovee Carmen. Eeer es our egrate efather Romero. Eeer esta oon
collectsion ov Orson Wells, woo beezeet eer amany time." The tour group gawks at the
bloodstained jackets. Husbands and wives stand slack-jawed in front of the embroidered
capes. They peer into glass cases, housing snapshots of famous matadors in mid-gore. Each
matador’s death is recorded with a newspaper article, photo and bloodied costume.
It's 1771 and Pedro kills his first bull at age 17. "From
1781-1799, it can be said that I killed each year 200 bulls, whose sum totals 5600 bulls,
yet I am persuaded that there may have been more." David and I peruse the snapshots,
and the taxidermied heads of bulls applauded for their bravery. David says to me,
"I’m rooting for the beast".
On the TV, in our hotel, we can watch a program called Impacto.
It’s a show like one they have in North America, where ordinary people send in home
videos that are deemed to be amusing. Impacto is mostly an hour of bullfight
footage. The terrified animals attempt to escape the ring. Scenes from Pamplona’s Fiesta
of San Fermin show the disoriented bulls who follow laughing young men into the canal.
At the ring, children and men grab at the tails, push them into bleachers, stab at their
already punctured backs and shoulders. The bulls attempt to pick up their assailants.
Sometimes a spectator will get too close and lose his pants to the horns. The inevitable
death of the bull is dragged out through a series of tauntings and near human accidents.
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