EXCERPT FROM SARAS
JOURNALJanuary 28, 1999
Huerta Santa Maria
Near Galaroza
The Reales Alcazares, Seville
The 9th Century Alcazar is the oldest palace still serving
European royalty. The palace is eclectic, with many additions to the original Moorish
fortress. In 1364 Pedro I ordered the construction of a royal residence within the
existing palaces built by Sevilles Almohad, including the exquisitely carved Patio
de las Munecas (Patio of the dolls). The next two years saw craftsmen from Toledo and
Granada create the breathtaking patios and halls. Later, Isabel I dispatched and greeted
Columbus from the Casa de la Contratacion.
Most awe-inspiring about the Alcazar is the fact that each successive
royal family saw the profound beauty and craftsmanship of the predecessor. The Christian
kings recognized the Moorish designs as worthy of keeping and adding to. The Alcazar is
one sprawling, eclectic architectural idea after another. Patios, alive with birds and
flowering trees, pools and boxwood mazes flank each unique room.
Rich marvels at the empty spaces. This palace has been stripped of its
furniture. The Spanish royal family uses the upper floors. The rooms that are open to the
public are empty. One is left to pour over the azulejos, the tapestries, the domed
ceilings, and the breathtaking carved plaster.
The rooms are cold. This is a trend in Seville, of course, with the
temperature rising often to 40 degrees Celsius in the summer months. These rooms would
remain cool on the hottest days. Stepping from the chilly palaces into the gardens is like
stepping from an air-conditioned plane onto a tropical island.