09/20/99-The Left Bank

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Cluny Museum medieval stained glass window.JPG (63659 bytes)
The Cluny Museum of medieval art includes an encyclopedic variety of stained glass windows.092099-looking to the right bank.JPG (25936 bytes)
From the Left Bank to the Right bank.092099-Musee d'Orsay attracts our attention.JPG (42833 bytes)
The Musee d'Orsay houses the world's finest collection of Impressionist art, and stands on the edge of the Left Bank of the Seine. 092099-the open space of the Musee d'Orsay used to be a railway station.JPG (53161 bytes)
Paris's Musee d'Orsay is a converted railway station.092099-Sara examines the catalogues.JPG (28058 bytes)
Sara examines the catalogues in the museum's bookshop.092099-subway performer.JPG (34757 bytes)
On our way home we're treated to a live performance of Broadway tunes at the Metro station.

EXCERPT FROM SARA’S JOURNAL

September 20th, 1999

The Left Bank

The Parisian music-hall star Mistinguette described the Seine as a "pretty blonde with laughing eyes". Indeed, the beguiling river is the historical, intellectual and sentimental heart of Paris. No other European city defines itself by its river in quite the same way. Not only is the Seine the geographical reference point of the city (distances measured from it, streets numbers determined by it) but the river divides Paris into two distinct areas, with the Right Bank on the north side of the river and the Left Bank on the south side. Historically the city is divided by the east's link to the city's ancient past and the west associated with the Paris of the 19th and 20th centuries. Just about every building of importance in Paris is on the river or within a stone's throw of it. The quays are lined with wide boulevards and majestic bourgeois apartments and rowhouses, museums, monuments and mansions. Ultimately, Paris's Seine is alive with a history of bustling fleets of pleasure boats and industry, and a present of unique bridge neighbourhoods, barges and bateaux mouches cruising sightseers along the banks to drink in the mist, mystery and resident lovers. 

The oldest church in Paris is called St-Germaine-des-Pres and it was built in 542.  More recently in this area there has evolved a cafe district where the great artists, writers and intellectuals smoke and plot revolutions. In fact, Paris's Left Bank is livelier and more populated than when it was at the forefront of the city's intellectual life in the 1950's. The area endures with it's major publishing houses, whose editors and executives entertain the next prize-winning writers at cafes. The Deux Magots is where Earnest Hemingway wrote and the Surrealists hung out; the Cafe de Flore is where Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir waxed over their existentialism; and the Brasserie Lipp was a favourite spot for French politicians and fashion designers. Today the  designers have set up shops along the left bank to cater to the ever-present smart set, interior designers line Rue Jacob, and at the Odeon young people gather at restaurants, cinemas and bars. At the restaurant La Procope, which claims to be the world's first coffee house (founded in 1686) Voltaire supposedly drank 40 cups of his favourite mixture of coffee and chocolate every day. 

 

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