11/15/98-The River Dordogne

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111598-steer hiding in the barn along the road to Ambes.JPG (24757 bytes)
Steer hide in their barn along the road to Ambes.
111598-Sara by unmarked Cavernes monument.JPG (40388 bytes)
Sara questions an unmarked Cavernes monument.
111598-fall scene on the edge of the Dordogne.JPG (37708 bytes)
A fall scene along the edge of the Dordogne.

EXCERPT FROM SARA’S JOURNAL

November 15, 1998

Cameyrac et St. Sulpice

The tidal river Dordogne marries Bordeaux’s Garonne just north of here. The Dordogne is lazy and mallard-inhabited like the Nicomeckel. Its spongy dykes oblige omnipresent lovers.

The road from Cameyrac to Cavernes is a twisting tour of grazing Charolais. We pass under the autoroute to Paris and find the scenic drive to Ambes. The town is much the same as Cavernes, and St. Sulpice, and St. Loubes. It’s quiet and only distinguishable by the breed of its barking dog. Shutters are shut and there is a man in a cap riding a bicycle. An otherwise average main street is transformed into a Grand Boulevard with a tandem parade of turning trees.

The rain faucet turns on and off, and every cloud has a silver lining. We round the bend at the Dordogne and Garonne junction and are promptly sabotaged by France’s commitment to efficient motorways. It’s a challenge to find a muddy bolt-loosener.

There’s a sunset in the maple-leaf ivy. The ivy hugs the wall and conceals lizards when the temperature drops. When the temperature drops the sunset deepens, turning the ivy crimson.

111598-boat workshop of Cavernes.JPG (44338 bytes)
We stop for a walk near the make-shift boat workshop of Cavernes.
111598-marina at Cavernes.JPG (27108 bytes)
A quiet fall day for boats waiting for summer, marina at Cavernes.

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