11/03/98-Waterford

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110398-coastal road to Tramore.JPG (15069 bytes)
The Coastal road to Tramore is tranquil, with tiny seaside villages and beaches.110398-Sara on Tramore beach.JPG (10857 bytes)
Sara fights with the wind on Tramore beach110398-5km of Tramore beach.JPG (10051 bytes)
Tramore beach stretches with 5km of white sand 110398-Waterford crystal furnaces.JPG (20498 bytes)
The Waterford Crystal furnaces have been hot 24 hours a day since 1947110398-2nd quality inspection area.JPG (25250 bytes)
The 2nd quality inspection area finds cracks and errors made in the cutting process
110398-grinding designs into the crystal.JPG (30113 bytes)
Grinding designs into the crystal is a delicate skill, apprentices take  five years to learn110398-20 crystal engravers.JPG (16256 bytes)
20 crystal engravers sit under lamps designing delicate motifs110398-chunks of crystal ice.JPG (27618 bytes)
Chunks of crystal scrap that will be melted down again
110398-crystal grandfather clock.JPG (18916 bytes)
A solid crystal grandfather clock at the water ford Crystal factory took several years to complete and is one of a kind110498-muddy Waterford harbour.JPG (24785 bytes)
Muddy Waterford harbour is deep enough to allow modern ships to moor in the city's quays
EXCERPT FROM SARA’S JOURNAL

November 3, 1998

Waterford

I lay in bed last night, stared at the chandelier and wondered at the possibilities of what could have occurred in such a room in the span of a hundred years.   

The coastal road from Youghal to Tramore is dotted with little villages. the seaside resort boasts a 5km white sand beach backed with 30 metre-high dunes at one end.  The wind pushes us down the shoreline and screams in our faces on the way back.

A few kilometres up the road at the outskirts of the city of Waterford is the Waterford Crystal Factory.  the first Waterford glass factory was established in 1783 at the west end of the quays of the River Suir, one of the busiest ports in Ireland.  The first phase of the business closed in 1851 due to punitive taxes imposed on the raw materials by the British government.  In 1947 the factory was revived at the outskirts of the city and to this day the kilns are operational 24 hours, never given the chance to cool down.  Highly skilled workers continue the tradition producing the characteristically heavy crystal, made with red lead, silica sand and potash. The master blower, the master cutter,  the master engravers and all of the workers under them come to the company at 17 or 18 years of age and apprentice for 5 to 10 years before acquiring the skills to design, blow, cut and polish the crystal. Pieces are so heavy because of their 30% lead weight, blown very thick in order to take the distinctive Waterford deep cuts in the glass. The craftsmanship is second to none, and workers are paid only for the pieces that make it to the show room.  Each piece is identified by its blower, cutter and polisher, and a bubble,chip, breakage or cutting too deep into the design results in a throw-away.  The craftsman must then begin again, even if he has worked on a piece for several hours.  The team of blowers, cutters and engravers is almost entirely men. Waterford Crystal acknowledges that this is because of the many years it takes to apprentice and learn the skills, disrupting plans for child-rearing. 80% of the crystal manufactured here is exported to the United States.

Waterford has been a strategic port since 915 AD. It's medieval foundations are apparent in narrow alleyways and the best surviving city walls in Ireland.  The walls are crowned by the 25-metre high Reginald's Tower, built by the Normans in the 12th century and strategically situated by the river.  The tower stands on the site of the original wooden Viking tower  built by Reginald Dane in 1003 AD and was the last stronghold to fall when the Normans overtook the Vikings 200 years later.   Waterford is now a thriving commercial city, with the estuary of the River Suir deep enough to allow modern ships to moor in the city's quays. 

110398-beach near Annestown.JPG (25120 bytes)
A beach near Annestown on the south eastern coast of Ireland
110398-Waterford Crystal tour group.JPG (18080 bytes)
The Waterford Crystal factory provides a guided tour through its facilities, where visitors can learn the craft of glass blowing close-up
110398-Waterford Crystal mop.JPG (24595 bytes)
An apprentice at the Waterford Crystal factory "mops" pieces of molten glass
110398-first quality inspection area.JPG (18753 bytes)
A  quality inspection area find bubbles and chips, and problems with crystal designs
110398-champagne anyone.JPG (19192 bytes)
Champagne anyone?
110398-no payment for mistakes 4 hour reject.JPG (24455 bytes)
A master cutter makes too-deep a cut and must throw away four hours of work, for which he will not be paid
110398-crystal engraving tools copper and grease.JPG (17505 bytes)
Crystal engraving tools are only copper and grease
110398-end of the tour money grab.JPG (20627 bytes)
The Waterford Crystal Showroom gives visitors a chance to examine the finished products and take something home
110398-Reginald's Tower in Waterford.JPG (19815 bytes)
The 12th centuryReginald's Tower is part of the best preserved cuty walls in Ireland

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