EXCERPT FROM SARA’S JOURNALJune
16, 1999
Fez, Morocco
The University of Foreign Lands
Men, everywhere, in western suits, in long, straight robes made of shirting material,
with matching hats and tassels dangling. They sit in clusters in any number of, in any of
the thousands of salon de the houses – cafes where they drink mint tea and lemon soda
and ogle the passers-by. Women are scarce, it seems not participating in city life, though
they watch their children in the parks and younger female students walk together with
purpose from place to place. I’m thirsty and look hard for a woman among the scores
of staring men. They feel compelled it seems, if not obliged to examine me, in my western
clothing – a not-so-loose, though I’ve stretched it on purpose T-shirt and long
baggy cargo pants. Together, Rich and I are constantly approached, asked urgently what we
are doing, where we are going, if we are married, where we are staying. It is unnerving
for the privacy-protective Canadians.
Founded in the 8th century by Moulay Idriss I, Fez rose to prominence with
the construction of a grand university-Mosque complex called the Qaraouine. Centuries
older than Oxford, the Qaraouine is believed to be the world’s first university. The
well-funded institution attracted scholars, religious leaders and courtiers to Fez, along
with merchants and labourers to meet the needs of the new population. Fez flourished as a
prominent capitol, with dynasties being born and dying here and all the legal rulings
coming from the academics. Seventeenth century maps even refer to coastal Rabat as the
port of Fez despite its distance of over a day’s journey.
Today Rabat is Morocco’s political capitol and Casablanca is the country’s
economic capitol. Marrakesh holds the place of Morocco’s tourist capitol with Fez not
far behind. The city remains to many the spiritual heartland of the nation, unchanged in
its architectural and cultural complexities and central to the Moroccan’s national
pride.
The local pride of the residents of Fez is perhaps the reason for all the helpfulness
and interest in foreigners. We’re getting accustomed to the "hello"s –
almost everyone we pass mutters it in teasing English. Nevertheless, we skip the crowded
cafes and sit contentedly in the shade of the Boujeloud Gardens, with the rest of the
students.
