EXCERPT FROM SARA’S JOURNALJune
18, 1999
Fez, Morocco
Jazz, Blues, and Flamenco
The Dar Batha Museum is the 19th century palace of Sultan Hassan I and his
playboy son Moulay Abd el-Aziz during the final years of decadence before Morocco’s
occupation by the French. The palace now houses a collection of Fez ceramics - with
signature blue motifs on an always white glazed background - as well as carpets and
tapestries, carved cedar interiors and mosaics.
We stroll through the thirsty gardens, and from under the palms watch the preparations
unfold for an evening concert in the palace’s courtyard. Stacked Marshalls and
spotlights compete with powdery, crumbling mosaic tiles and a shallow pool. The musicians
give us hints of what lies ahead – ancient instruments from Andalusia and Morocco
– a lute, a handful of flutes and whistles, a Spanish guitar. Then someone walks
among the palms and between the stone palace walls, blowing into an alto sax and icing the
pale afternoon with buttercream.
There are eight of them. They’re called Radio Tarifa, and most are based in
Madrid. They call themselves Radio Tarifa because Tarifa is the closest point on the
Iberian Peninsula to Morocco. Their music is a fusion of traditional Andalusian music,
flamenco, jazz, and Moroccan styles. There are two drummers and they both play the
hold-on-your-lap kind.
John’s a tall guy in baggy chino shorts, obviously western and chatting up the
musicians before they go on. He’s a Vancouverite, traveling through Morocco
extensively, and by chance has found this concert performed by one of his favourite
musical groups. He’s even moved hotels to be close to the palace. He’s thrilled
and can’t believe his luck. They’ve never played in Canada.
The sky turns from cerulean to cobalt to indigo and finally black. The bank swallows
continue with the devastation of 1300-year-old city walls, nesting and devoted to keeping
the evening free of mosquitoes. Here, at the palace, we sit with clapping Berbers and
dignitaries, bouncing children in impeccable clothing, other tourists, Arab families,
Spanish gypsies and groupies from Madrid, and listen to the fusion of thousands of years,
and inhabitants, cultures and geography.
