04/03/99-A Miracle of Belonging

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040399-the band passes through the crowd.JPG (59824 bytes)
The band bawls a funereal march to accompany the paso040399-tight shot of the crying virgen mary.JPG (30318 bytes)
The Virgin is surrounded by fragrant flowers.
040399-women throw flower petals unto the Virgen Mary's Paso from the surrounding rooftops.JPG (17741 bytes)

Worshippers toss handfuls of flower petals on the paso below. 040399-detail of mary's gold and white robe.JPG (46208 bytes)
Eduardo’s lips parted in a smile, thinking of the golden robes above him.040399-Santisimo Cristo de las Cinco Llagas, Hermandad de la Trinidad.JPG (37459 bytes)
Holy Saturday pasos depict the Death of Christ.  040399-saddened disciple watches as christ is taken down from the cross.JPG (22907 bytes)
The Passion and Death are relived every year in Seville with unparalleled fervour.   040399-old postcard of crucified christ paso.JPG (39613 bytes)
Turn-of-the-
century penitents carry the Gitanos' Cristo de la Expiracion.  The figure is nicknamed "Cachorro"-the name of the dying gypsy who was used by the   artist  to capture the look of death.

040399-Paso de la urna, Hemandad del Santo Entierro de Nuestro Senor Jesucristo.JPG (69661 bytes)
Holy Saturday's last procession carries Paso de la Urna by the Hermandad del Santo Entierro.   040399-the virgen mary and her large halo.JPG (41596 bytes)
The Sevillanos reverence for the mother and the family is embodied in their celebration of each Virgin's paso.

EXCERPT FROM SARA’S JOURNAL

April 3, 1999

Calle Conde de Barajas, Seville

A Miracle of Belonging: Holy Saturday

There was nothing to believe in. Eduardo remained curled in his chair, without a friend, sinking deeper into his solitude and isolation. No one felt more alone. No one came to help.

It could have happened to anybody, this eternal series of empty days. At one time Eduardo felt a success—busy with his business and even thinking about starting a family. Time slipped away with his circumstances, and at once he felt helpless and without hope.

Eduardo stepped out to buy a lottery ticket. It wasn’t about the money. He lived in the flat his mother had rented before the dictatorship of Franco, during the reign of the Second Republic. Any agreement made before Spain’s current constitution is binding and cannot be changed. Like many other widows, Eduardo’s mother made a lifelong contract with the owner of the building. With his mother in a nursing home, Eduardo lived there paying only a few pesetas in rent. He stepped out to buy a lottery ticket because he wanted to be a winner. People loved winners. He stepped out to give the world its final chance to make him happy.

He removed his slippers and stepped out into the stagnant heat of Holy Saturday. These things were a nuisance, with the crowds and mess. These people treated the street like a sewer, dropping paper and bottles where they stood—behavior they wouldn’t dream of in their own homes. Their homes were immaculate. If the mess was outside their door, it was invisible.

With all the energy he could muster he squeezed in and out of the strollers and the kissing teenagers. The rippling sun blacked out his pupils. All at once he collided with a hooded penitent, who was blind himself behind the anonymous mask, the eye-slits drooping and useless. Eduardo tripped, sending the penitent over and on top of him. A candle toppled too, and a waterfall of hot wax splashed and dribbled everywhere. The other penitents were piling up, unable to stop because of the approaching paso. Everyone was tripping now. The anxious crowds stepped into the street and blocked the procession further.

He lay under those heavy bodies. The penitents yelped as people stepped on their bare feet. Eduardo reached forward to find a crawling space. It was dark under those scrambling, robed bodies. He looked up, searching for sky and balance. There before him, looming, was the huge mass of the paso, velvet and gold, wobbling with unsteadiness on the necks of the costaleros. At its summit gazed a sooty, agonized face under a halo of gold and silver. From up there, she peered down at him, her eyes weeping.

The paso stopped in time. Eduardo was cornered between the edge of the velvet curtain and the recovering nazarenos, and the shoes of the onlookers, inching ever forward toward the float. A voice rose above the chatter of the spectators—a woman’s voice was crying and cooing a saeta of praise, singing, "beloved, divine, everlasting love". Eduardo felt her gaze and looked up again. Her tears, like silver beads on a drawn, sickly face, rested ageless there in the shadow of the canopy. She was utterly beautiful in the embroidered robes and lace.

All at once, the paso jumped. It seemed the penitents had regained their organization and the procession was on its way again. The costaleros lilted towards Eduardo, who remained paralyzed on the cobblestone, all wax and blood from his collision. He ducked when the paso came over him, and the costaleros, holding a steady pace, shuffled around him like a Red Sea, until there was an alley for his body beneath the float. There in the hot darkness, with the breathing, the huffing, the grunting and the shuffling, Eduardo’s lips parted in a smile, thinking of the golden robes above him. He thought of her, and her gaze, and her court—the thousands who escorted her through the streets. He felt a place among the canvas shoes. He felt a miracle of belonging.

When the sun shone again, Eduardo stood up and brushed away the sand and litter. The robe gathered in a train at the back of the paso, rounding to a tip at the centre where he stood. He fixed his eyes on it, and his arms were intertwined with the others who stood behind her. They shuffled after the miracle-worker, Maria Santisima de la Esperanza Macarena, shouting, "Guapo!" with every step.

040399-the crowds of devout following the end of the procession through the streets.JPG (57137 bytes)
Masses crowd Calle Feria in the early hours of Holy Saturday.040399-white hooded nazarenos carrying the SPQR banner.JPG (31854 bytes)
A banner embroidered with the letters SPQR-Senatus Populusque Romanus (the Popular Senate of Rome) is carried for historical reference rather than religious.040399-detail of the top of the canopy of mary's paso.JPG (38886 bytes)
The Virgin paso is always canopied.040399-flowers cover the top of mary's paso.JPG (56649 bytes)
The canopy is covered with petals above the Virgin's head. 040399-shot of the virgen mary from behind.JPG (27951 bytes)
Devoted followers trail behind the Virgin's paso, praising her as they walk with the procession.040399-christ is lowered from the cross.JPG (29841 bytes)
Christ is lowered from the cross at Plaza del Duque.040399-detail of christ being lowered from the cross.JPG (16858 bytes)
Santismo Cristo de las Cinco Llagas (Christ of the five wounds)040399-Cristo de la Expiracion - Cachorro.JPG (22482 bytes)
The face of death, "Cachorro".040399-Alegoria del Triunfo de la Cruz sobre la Muerte y el Pecado.JPG (17813 bytes)
An allegory of death finishes Holy Saturday.

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