EXCERPT FROM SARA’S JOURNALMay
16, 1999
Jerez de la Frontera
Jerez de la Frontera is the capitol of sherry production, surrounded by tidy vineyards
growing grapes for the fortified wine. The word "sherry" is, in fact a
mispronunciation of the name Jerez, as British Merchants have for centuries produced and
shipped the wine from here, creating Anglo-Andaluz dynasties like Sandeman and John
Harvey.
The Phoenicians introduced the grapevine to the Jerez region 3000 years ago, and later
the Greeks and then the Romans exported the wine. However, the foundations of the modern
sherry trade were laid by the British merchants who settled here after the Christian
Reconquest of Spain in the 13-15th centuries. They discovered that the chalky
soil of the Jerez countryside combined with an arid climate produced fine grapes and fine
wine, particularly when fortified with grape spirit.
Grape harvesting is done in the first three weeks of September. Palomino grapes, used
to make a more dry, delicate sherry, are taken as quickly as possible to the presses to
ensure freshness. Depending on the type of sherry, grapes are sometimes dried in the sun,
concentrating the sugar before they are pressed, like Pedro Ximenez grapes, used to make a
fuller, sweeter sherry. Destalking and pressing is now done in cylindrical stainless steel
vats. In the summertime this is done a night when the Andalusian heat is not so intense. A
yeast called Flor sometimes forms on the exposed surface of a young wine in the
fermentation vat, preventing oxidization and adding a delicate taste. If Flor develops,
the wine is fresh, light and crisp, best served chilled with tapas, and is the favourite
of Andalusians. It’s called fino.
The fortification of the wine with pure grape spirit raises the alcohol level from 11%
to around 18% for olorosos, a ruddy-coloured, rich sherry with a nutty aroma, and 15% for
finos. Other types of sherry are Manzanilla, which is similar to fino, but has a
distinctive salty tang, and comes exclusively from the neighbouring city of Sanlucar.
Amontillado is fino aged in the barrel, where the Flor eventually "dies" and
imparts a strong, earthy taste. Finally, cream sherry is a full, dark blend of oloroso
with Pedro Ximenez grapes. It is the sweetest type of sherry and most often drunk as a
dessert wine.
There is a system used in the production of sherry that assures the consistent quality
of the sherry. The solera system mixes wine from the youngest barrel with older wine,
taking on its character. The oldest barrel contains a tiny proportion of very old wine.
One can tour the bodegas of Jerez, and watch the process and taste the finished
product. Today we’re here during comidas, and the bodegas are closed up until late
afternoon. We settle on softer refreshment – icy cold, slushy lemonade, sold by a man
in a candy store. The alternative is a delight considering the heat wave.
