A flying buttress on the Palace of the Mayorazgo in Arcos, one of many Baroque buildings
in the small town.
Arcos de la Frontera sits high above the Guadalete river valley.
The Church of Santa Maria de la Asuncion and the Gothic Parroquia de San Pedro stand high
on the rocky Arcos outcrop.
The massive, Gothic Parroquia de San Pedro is built at the very edge of the gorge, with a
commanding view from its tower.
On either side of the altar are the remains of Saints found in 3rd century
local Roman catacombs.
Decorative stonework at Plaza del Cabildo, Arcos.
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EXCERPT FROM SARA’S JOURNAL May 17, 1999
Arcos de la Frontera
Legend has it that Arcos de la Frontera was founded around the time of
the Great Biblical Flood, built originally by the King Brigo, Noah’s grandson, some
2000 years before Christ. The town’s emblem includes the following: "King Brigo
founded Arcos and Alfonso the Wise recovered it from the Moors".
Legend aside, the inviting strategic position of Arcos de la Frontera
has made it inhabited since prehistoric times. The archetypal pueblo blanco is situated on
a point of high land, overlooking the Guadalete valley. Archeologists deduce that it was
settled as the Roman town of Arcobriga and later as the stronghold of Medina Arkosh under
the Moorish Caliphate of Cordoba. It was, indeed captured by Alfonso X’s Catholic
forces in 1264.
It’s hot. Perhaps 39 degrees Celsius. The labyrinthine Moorish quarter twists and
turns in a series of steep, cobblestoned hills, funneling climbers to the town’s
ruined castle. The massive, Gothic Parroquia de San Pedro is built at the very edge of the
gorge overlooking the Guadalete river valley. On either side of the altar are the remains
of Saints found in 3rd century local Roman catacombs. The leathery figures
escaped decomposition and are now touted as Saints because of it. They’re encased in
glass boxes and wrapped with a gauzy shell to keep them intact. They’ve been dressed
in silk costumes. The Parish’s carved wooden altarpiece is the oldest in Andalusia.
Dripping sweat, we step into a bar and join the wrinkled, brown men. They sit in rows
here, in front of the parish, on the street, in the bars, in grey slacks and woolen caps,
cardigans and dress shoes, sometimes leaning on canes, but mostly drinking and chatting
loudly. |
A local takes it easy in the shade of her doorway..
Stonework detail on Church of Santa Maria de la Asuncion.
Men visit in the shade of the parish of San Pedro.
Pueblos blancos are given their name because of the traditional Moorish whitewash given to
every building.
Remanents of 12th century tiles can still be found on the walls of Arcos' older buildings.
Rich at the top of Arcos.
Arcos de la Frontera is a labyrnth of streets and alleys. |
