10/03/98-Exploring Highgate

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map-100398 Highgate and Hamstead Heath.JPG (42135 bytes)
Highgate and Hampstead Heath.
100398 - wilfred and edwin playing in the morning.JPG (21058 bytes)
Wilfred and Edwin playing in the morning.100398 - highgate park pond.JPG (21198 bytes)
Highgate Park has trails for walking and a central pond 100398 - Sara in Highgate Cemetary.JPG (27328 bytes)
19th century Highgate Cemetery is the final resting place of Karl Marx, among others.
100398-Highgate cemetery guide gives Rich the details of one tombstone.JPG (50638 bytes)
An ancient man in a tweed cap and polished brogues gives us a sentimental tour. 100398 - Highgate cemetary stones.JPG (30558 bytes)
Highgate Cemetery's eerie and romantic stones conjure dreams of Vampires and ghosts.
100398-horse tombstone.JPG (32544 bytes)
A saddened horse shows the grief of the living.
100398-mourner leaning on cross tombstone.JPG (38533 bytes)
A mourner collapses against the cross under the weight of sadness.100398-hamstead heath.JPG (19582 bytes)
Let's Go Fly A Kite.100398 - sara in living room at highgate.JPG (20666 bytes)
Angela Wallis, an interior designer, paints each room of her home differently and compliments with her own paintings.

EXCERPT FROM SARA'S JOURNAL

October 3, 1998

Highgate, London

Wilfred has a violin lesson this morning, for which my presence is requested. It is a last-minute request and I find myself hurrying down Cromwell Avenue in pajama bottoms and flying shoelaces. Wilfy has yet to warm up to the joys of a musical education. The class is a flashback to my early days in the music lesson circuit. The teacher is an elderly woman with a long skirt and a staff drawn onto her living room carpet. She gets the children to place marbles on the staff according to what notes she sings. It’s too bad she can’t somehow incorporate castles into her lesson plan, as they are Wilf’s current and most heart-felt passion.

Highgate Cemetery is one of the most famous Romantic cemeteries in the U.K. In the 19th century, London's cemetaries were overflowing. As a solution, they created many regional cemetaries with Highgate being one of them. Massive stones and ornate markers abound. There is even an Egyptian-style circular catacomb.  Eerie and beautiful, completely overgrown with vines and trees. An ancient man in a tweed cap and polished brogues gives us a sentimental tour of  physicist Faraday's tomb ,a smattering of  pugilists and the huge, bronze head of Karl Marx .  I am particularly taken by the stone angels and the animal monuments…I have assured Rich that I will erect a giant stone Airedale on his future monument.

It’s nine miles around Hampstead Heath. We sip tea at the Hampstead Tea Rooms and walk back a different route through the Heaths, ending up at the Kenwood House, a stately home and now a museum.  

Angela is at the top of three flights of stairs, on the top of a step ladder. The children are napping and she is working on some wall paintings. I gasp. She is teetering at the top of her house. She says she is quite used to it.  Angela is a designer and does a lot of mural work. Her walls are an epic painting and she explains to me how in older homes one "papers" a plaster wall that can never be perfect because it is so old. Then she paints the wall with a washy treatment of several layers and then often adds illustrations.

The Victorian house is magical, but it is also freezing because there is a massive hole in the kitchen wall. The Wallises are in the midst of a remodeling project which will include a glass-domed observatory between the kitchen and the dining room. In the mean time there is no wall and the floors are like ice under my socks.

100398 - Edwin as a southpark character.JPG (24066 bytes)
Edwin imitates Southpark.
100398-stone angel, Highgate Cemetery, Highgate, London.JPG (26347 bytes)
The last of London's angels remain in Highgate Cemetery.100398-angel praying tombstone.JPG (28197 bytes)
The early 1900's saw the misuse of the funds paid by graveowners for "maintenance in perpetuity" resulting in waning upkeep and the subsequent take-over by nature.100398-complete tombstone with angel on top.JPG (38635 bytes)
A few of the larger, more spectacular monuments have been cleared of brush, cleaned and restored to their original splendor.100398-leaf covered path throught the highgate cemetary.JPG (40701 bytes)
The Highgate cemetery is a mix of grave stones, memorials, mausoleums (some up to 3 stories high), catacombs and quite walkways.100398 - Karl Marx in Highgate.JPG (31200 bytes)
Karl Marx in Highgate.100398 - The front of Kenwood house.JPG (14639 bytes)
The stately home Kenwood House is now a museum.

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