
The Grianan of Aileach is a 500-1000 AD ring fort, the best preserved in Ireland

The valley opens behind Sara as she walks towards the Grianan.

Walls become sounding boards for political beliefs in L'derry.

The snaking A6 road takes us back to Belfast. |
EXCERPT FROM SARA'S
JOURNAL
October 12, 1998
Belfast
Grianan Of Aileach Fort stands just a few miles from Fergals
family home in Donegal. It is a 500-1000 AD ring fort with a 2m thick hand laid
stone wall. It was completely destroyed in the 12th C and rebuilt to perfection in
the 19th C by some historical zealot. The wall has an inner walkway (not recommended
for claustrophobics) and stands 4m high.
At the Virgin Cinema Rich and I see a Northern Irish Film called Divorcing Jack,
which is a violent black comedy about the IRA and Belfast. The whole theatre is in
hysterics except for us. We cannot distinguish what is meant to be a joke and what is real
and possible. I am launching into a panic attack about the city and bombs and all the
people in the cinema by the films end. We are shell-shocked in the lobby when Fergal
and Kris stride happily out of The Truman Show, and they spend the next hour
explaining to us how hilarious the IRA characters are and that the film has been a hit in
Belfast. |

The Grianan's commanding view of the surrounding countryside made it valuable real estate
for generations of rulers.
Derry's walls are the result of wealthy London Trade Guilds, in the 17th century
being made responsible for resettling the city after centuries of attacks.
Ireland doesn't go a day without a rainbow. |